Common Roofing Problems

Published Oct 16, 20
5 min read

An Introduction to shingle Repair

When roofing shingles are not installed correctly, you might find that they raise, leakage, or perhaps fall off throughout the next windstorm. This type of error can cost you more cash in the long-run. There are likewise specific safety issues to be familiar with when performing DIY roofing system repair work.

A roofing repair can become a lot more unsafe if you try to perform a repair when it is windy, rainy, or when the roofing system is slick with damp leaves or debris. Hauling heavy shingles and nails up a ladder can likewise position a safety hazard. Other safety concerns come from the usage of unknown materials or equipment.

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When you choose to go the Do It Yourself route with your roofing system repair work, you not only run the risk of losing cash however also your valuable time and energy. Replacing shingles on your roofing system is tough work that can take hours and even days, depending on the level of the damage. As the products are big, heavy, and difficult to navigate, replacing roof shingles can be difficult on the body.

It can be annoying to find loose shingles thrown about your lawn after a storm. Nevertheless, this is a typical issue that has a fairly simple fix. If your roof remains in otherwise great condition, just the harmed area itself can be changed to avoid water from permeating under the adjacent shingles.

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For more details on how to fix roof shingles blown off by a storm or to set up a roofing system examination, call our expert roofing repair specialists at Beyond Exteriors today. replacing shingles.

There are two techniques by which shingles are connected to a roof: roofing nails or adhesive strips. Typically roofing nails have brief shanks, sharp points, and wide, flat heads that allow them to penetrate the shingle without tearing it. Some shingles are made with adhesive strips connected to the bottom which, when connected, produces a strong, water resistant seal to the shingle below it.

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It's good that the roof is not leaking (you didn't point out that) but incorrect installation will create leaks in the future. So, verifying a few crucial items and then formally alerting your contractor (by accredited, return invoice mail) of inaccurate installation will protect your rights. I 'd check the following: Variety of nails in each shingle: Each roofing manufacturer requires a certain variety of nails into each shingle, normally 4 minimum.

( Where I live, 65 miles per hour winds would need 5 nails per shingle.) You'll find this info on each wrapper around each bundle of shingles. If no wrapper is around, you can find it on the producer's website. If you don't understand the name of the manufacturer, call the builder. Nail Positioning: I see this incorrect on a lot of jobs.

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Nails must be above the top of the eliminated in the 3-tab shingle, however about 1" below the mastic strip. Many roofers want to nail "in" the mastic strip. This is bad for 2 factors: a) it misses the shingle straight below, so there are just 4 nails holding the shingle on the roof instead of 8 nails, and b) it creates a little dip in the shingle because it causes the shingle to bend down over the top edge of the lower shingle.

Hand tabbing is positioning a quarter size dab of roof mastic "by hand" under each shingle. Nevertheless, a lot of roofing manufacturers require hand tabbing "if the shingles have actually not self-sealed in an adequate time." This is a bit arbitrary, but "sufficient time" suggests "within the warranty duration." (You can get that confirmed by the roof producer.) So, the method to evaluate this is to go up on the roofing and try to lift a shingle tab (bend a shingle tab up) (installing shingles).

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The roofing professional will tell you the shingles will "self tab" down. That means they anticipate the sun heating the shingle up until it stays with the mastic strip under each tab. The problem is that it might not get warm enough in your location or the nails are not set flush and the nails are holding the shingles up above the mastic strip.

A lot of roofing contractors will stretch that to 6" or 6. 1/2". That offers the opportunity for the wind to lift more of the shingle and creates inappropriate nailing, (missing out on the top of the lower shingle, and so on) Too except nails: Nails need to totally penetrate the plywood. Can you see the nails from inside the attic? Roofing sheathing is too thin: 1/2" plywood or 5/8" particle board minimum, I think.



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